{"id":673,"date":"2015-08-16T13:46:33","date_gmt":"2015-08-16T13:46:33","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/bushbabyblog.com\/?p=673"},"modified":"2015-09-08T08:51:30","modified_gmt":"2015-09-08T08:51:30","slug":"hluhluwe-imfolozi-wilderness-trail","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/bushbabyblog.com\/index.php\/2015\/08\/16\/hluhluwe-imfolozi-wilderness-trail\/","title":{"rendered":"Walking the wilderness trail in Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park"},"content":{"rendered":"

It was more than just a walk in the park. The 3 day Short iMfolozi Wilderness Trail was an experience that freed our souls and connected\u00a0us to the African bush.<\/strong><\/h2>\n

We can\u2019t describe the feeling of surrendering to the iMfolozi wilderness and becoming a part of it. It\u2019s an internal switch that was flicked on in us and we knew we had immersed ourselves in the environment and found our place in it. It\u2019s something no amount of photographs or descriptions can really capture.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_3047\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Our trio has just returned from a 3 day, 2 nights Short Wilderness Trail<\/a> in the iMfolozi Wilderness area<\/a> inside the Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park.<\/a> My dad, my husband Graham and I made ourselves one with the Zululand wild on the guided walking trail through part of the most untouched wilderness in South Africa.<\/p>\n

\"Photo<\/a>

Photo thanks to Mark Gibbs<\/p><\/div>\n

Being in that wild setting is a feeling of being tiny in the greater scheme of the natural area\u2019s system but at the same time feeling so connected to it and accepted by it. We were instantly aware of our fragility out there as mere humans. So lacking in instinct and ability compared to the wilderness inhabitants. We respected it and took our place there, in awe of every rustle in a bush, bird call and rumble of an elephant\u2019s belly. We realised we were in tune with the heartbeat of that place.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_3028\"<\/a><\/p>\n

This moment of full connection happened on the morning of our third\u00a0day when walking in single file, as is the trail way, through a particularly wondrous section of bushveld governed by thorn trees and diversified by more lush vegetation nearer the White Umfolozi River. We had just come across a full buffalo skull- a reminder of the circle of life, a code that is lived by in the bush. After spending the last two days and nights slowly taking in the soul-lifting as well as adrenalin fuelled moments, we were on its level and much more aware of our surroundings.<\/p>\n

\"Walking<\/a><\/p>\n

Nothing physical happened that made us realise we were in touch with the wild but walking through that area I was suddenly very aware that we were not alone. Definitely being watched and sharing that space with other creatures, hidden from sight but connected to me through an energy I felt. I felt they were there. A pulsing deep in my belly and an energy in the air I could actually feel. I mentioned this in a whisper to Graham. \u201cI can feel there is something nearby. There\u2019s something there in the bush that wasn\u2019t there a few steps ago.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n

When we stopped for some water a little later he eagerly confirmed that he had felt exactly the same way through that specific stretch of bush, and my dad had a similar twinge of electricity and awareness spread through him. It was an amazing moment to have shared and something that is impossible to describe. You had to feel it.<\/p>\n

The Faces behind our Wilderness Trail<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Our group comprised of 8 keen trailists. We bonded through our excitement and need to explore and encounter the wilderness on the most basic level- on foot.<\/p>\n

We three were the South Africans in the group, the others being visitors from the UK, Germany and Italy.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_3223\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Our trail was led by Mark Gibbs who has warmth to him that makes you feel like his friend immediately and a knowledge and passion for the bush that is awe-worthy. His campfire stories about trail experiences and wild animal encounters is the stuff of African legends too.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_3197\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Mpila was Mark\u2019s second in command- a confident, fearless trail guide who kept watch over all of us and our surroundings from the back of our line. She has a smile that competes with the sun and a gift for finding the best shady spots to relax in during stops. She also enthralled us with historical stories of her Zulu people who used to live in the area during Shaka Zulu\u2019s<\/a> time and their traditions and beliefs linked to certain trees and plants in the area.<\/p>\n

Thomas was our camp cook and made magic happen with the use of fire alone. All meals were cooked in pots over the coals. Each seemingly more delicious than the last. His speciality pot bread welcomed us back to camp each day after our walk. I miss that bread already. Thomas also turned into my angel on the trail as it turns out he is not only a cook but a shoe-maker too. My well-worn walking shoes chose to give up and break apart during our first day\u2019s walk and Thomas expertly fixed them with his specialist tools and thread. They are in perfect shape now and so neatly patched. They\u2019ll walk another 20 trails thanks to Thomas.<\/p>\n

\"Faces<\/p>\n

Moments from our Short Wilderness Trail<\/strong><\/h2>\n

In the car on our drive back home, we reminisced about our days in the bush and some of the memories that stood out:<\/p>\n

On our first day, as we left the base camp, a lone elephant bull came down to the river and drank. It was almost as if he arrived especially to\u00a0welcome us and wish us\u00a0a happy trail.<\/p>\n

One of our most \u201cwow\u201d<\/em> animal encounters was the massive breeding herd of elephants that came down to the river to drink and play near our bush camp. We watched from the bank, unbeknownst to them. There were hundreds of them and we were sharing their home. We met some of them again from a distance on our final day too as they trumpeted and ran through the bush as we looked on from higher ground.<\/p>\n

\"Animals<\/a><\/p>\n

We walked into three white rhinos and we\u2019re still debating who got the bigger fright- them or us! They were surprised and Mark and Mpila expertly handled the situation as the rhinos decided to flee just a few metres away from us. Mark shouted to ensure they fled away from us and not towards us and they crashed through the bush, quaking the ground as they went. It was incredible and reminded us again how vulnerable we are as humans in the big-boy world<\/em> of the wild.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_3228\"<\/a><\/p>\n

We also came across another rhino as well as a buffalo bull which sized us up for a few breath-held moments before moving off.<\/p>\n

Some of the highlights were the times we pulled off our shoes and walked through the river’s water as part of our route. There is something indescribably freeing and delicious about sinking your toes into the river sand, ankle deep in river water, completely one with the environment.<\/p>\n

\"walking<\/a><\/p>\n

We walked along animal-made trails, following the routes they had chosen best. Mark guided us to a number of unbelievable viewpoints which towered above the reserve below. We soaked in those views, perched on the cliff side at Siwasmfene – meaning \u201cbaboons view\u201d<\/em> in Zulu.\u00a0 We peered down over the park at Shaka’s Rock and heard harrowing stories of the Zulu king ordering his subjects to jump to their death from those heights. We lunched in the midday heat on the boulders at Nqabanene<\/em> meaning \u201cthe Fortress\u201d<\/em> which is linked to the history of Shaka\u2019s battles. Finally on route back to main base camp we got to say goodbye to the wilderness from the iconic spot at Momfu<\/em>, drinking in the sights of the White Umfolozi River and bush from above. We game watched and took it all in from our God-like vantage points.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_3171\"<\/a><\/p>\n

We snuck in for a look at a baboon\u2019s cave and were treated to a very special show of vultures gliding around together at our eye level.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_3172\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Our temporary bush camp home was named Mphafa<\/em> after the Zulu name for the\u00a0Buffalo Thorn t<\/em>ree. The tree is traditionally used in the Zulu culture to fetch the spirit of a dead Zulu from where he\/she died and bring it home to the family dwelling. \u00a0We settled into a fireside community in camp at night, seated on cushions on the ground at fire level which brought us even closer to our setting. We star gazed and went scorpion hunting in the trees guided by Mark\u2019s special UV torch which made them glow in the dark. We also listened to the chorus of frogs from our tents at nights and heard the distant lions roar and closer hyena whoops.<\/p>\n

\"in<\/a><\/p>\n

Camp life is a good life and we fell into the simple ways of co-existing. The equivalent to the \u201coccupied\u201d<\/strong> sign in a loo was if the \u201ctoilet hole digging spade\u201d<\/strong> was missing from its spot against the tree. The shower system was that you\u2019d fill your bucket with hot water from the pot on the fire and take it around the back of camp to the outdoor shower spot, with stunning sunset views I might add. Similarly, if the bucket was missing from its spot, the shower was \u201coccupied\u201d<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

\"Picture

Picture thanks to Mark Gibbs<\/p><\/div>\n

We cooled ourselves in the river one afternoon after our day\u2019s walk, the water just enough in places to cover our limbs as we absorbed it. It is winter in Zululand but still warm and very dry. There is ample mud though and we reveled in smearing the smooth \u201cexport quality\u201d<\/em> stuff all over us, making ourselves truly one with that river.<\/p>\n

\"Photo

Picture thanks to Mark Gibbs<\/p><\/div>\n

The river also doubled as a refrigerator when the South African men buried their few beers in the river bed, under the water to keep cool until our return in the evening. The result: the beers were luke-warm but still so refreshing. Next time, they\u2019ll bury them deeper.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_3122\"<\/a><\/p>\n

On our final morning in camp, the donkeys arrived with their two minders. These cute, hardy characters collect and carry the camp cooking equipment, bedding that need laundering and sometimes a few small bags belonging to trailists back to main camp.<\/p>\n

The lead donkey is named Ngudlaphuthu<\/em> which means \u201cEats all the porridge<\/em>\u201d and Thomas puts out left over food from our previous dinners for her to eat. She refuses to eat grass like her companions do. She eats porridge, rice and spaghetti only.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_3216\"<\/a><\/p>\n

It\u2019s a dangerous life for the donkeys in iMfolozi though and Mark told us the horrifying stories about how many of the donkeys have met their end as the lions take them out while on their route. Last year alone thirteen donkeys were hunted by lions while transporting goods in the park. It just stands as a reminder that it\u2019s wild out there, where we walked that wilderness.<\/p>\n

Mark explained that last year was a particularly problematic year for the donkeys in the park though as there was a pride of especially “wicked lions” in the area along the donkey route. These brutes targeted the donkeys and caused trouble for other prides of lions in the park too. They have since been translocated to other reserves to keep the balance and there has been relative peace for the donkeys ever since.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_3104\"<\/a><\/p>\n

During our day walks in the game reserve we were astounded at just how many signs of the wildlife we encountered, even if we didn\u2019t see too many of animals themselves. Our wanderings took us through numerous white rhino territories which we were certain of due to the rhino middens or territory-marking dung piles the males leave behind them. There was so much dung. So much!<\/p>\n

We also passed lots of elephant dung, as you can imagine, as well as other animals too such as bush pig, multiple antelope, giraffe, buffalo and even black rhino. We were captivated by being able to identify which animals had passed by before us by tracking their footprints or spoor. This is a favourite bush activity for Graham in particular who was fascinated by all the different markings we found. We identified many lion, hyena, wild dog and elephant spoor just to mention a few.<\/p>\n

\"Us<\/p>\n

Graham jumped down into the riverbed one evening while we were saluting the sunset from the banks and managed to piece together the story of a wild dog hunt and kill that had happened there recently, all by using the signs left behind. Mark shouted down questions which Graham sought the clues to by following the tracks and describing the \u201cscene of the crime\u201d<\/em> he was in. Between the two of them it was deciphered that a pack of wild dogs had taken down an impala and would have devoured it in totality within 15 minutes of the kill. All that was left as proof was a blood stained section of sand and the frenzy of footprints all around.<\/p>\n

We felt privileged to be able to walk through proper wilderness, never inhabited by modern man, never impacted on by anything man-made and still ruled by nature\u2019s movements. \u00a0Parts of our hearts were left behind in iMfolozi\u2019s wilderness area, and we\u2019re already trying to plan our return visit soon to reconnect with it even more.<\/p>\n

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Some tips and useful info:<\/strong><\/h2>\n

There\u2019s not too much information online about the details of the trail from a personal experience perspective so here are a few things we thought would have been useful to know before we went:<\/p>\n